Geneva has dozens of top-drawer expensive restaurants, where you can find cuisine to match the best in the world. Dining within the top hotels is nearly always superb – Le Cygne in the Noga Hilton, Le Chat Botté in the Beau Rivage and Les Continents in the Intercontinental stand out, with the first two offering spectacular views and terrace seating in addition to top-quality food. The following is a tiny trawl through accessible non-hotel places; all require pockets deep enough to absorb a Fr.60–100 per-head bill.

L’Ange du Dix Vins, 31 Rue Jacques Dalphin, Carouge (022/342 03 18). Much-loved little place, with warm Provençale ochre-and-sky-blue decor and cuisine to match. A convivial atmosphere in both the restaurant and less formal bistro adjacent fits precisely the relaxed appreciation of good food and wine, overseen by a chef “qui oppose au snobisme de la gastro les magies chaleureuses du restau”. Daily specials around Fr.23, full menu Fr.60, truffle menu Fr.110. Closed Sat & Sun.

Le Béarn, 4 Quai de la Poste (022/321 00 28). Geneva’s premier establishment, supremely elegant and with lavish and inventive cuisine earning plaudits from those in the know. Menus are from Fr.50, but most meals probably won’t remain in mere double figures. Closed Sat & Sun & mid-July–Aug.

L’Esquire, 7 Rue du Lac (022/786 50 44). Gourmet French cuisine in the unlikely surroundings of an Eaux-Vives backstreet. The place is also a gallery for local artists, and pleasant decor and respectful service aids peaceful digestion of the foie gras and filet mignon de veau. Lunch is Fr.35, evening menus Fr.65–85. Closed Sat lunch & Sun.

Vieux-Bois, 12 Avenue de la Paix (022/919 24 26). High-quality showcase of the world-famous catering school L’École Hôtelière de Genève: all the chefs and waiting staff are students, which means you’ll get sharp, attentive service and an haute cuisine lunch – French, with light, inventive touches and veggie options – for a fraction of prices elsewhere. Scoff a four-course menu for as little as Fr.45, or choose from the daily specials for half that, and then retire to the garden for coffee. Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm; garden May–Sept Mon–Sat noon–6pm. Closed Easter, mid-July–mid-Aug, Christmas & New Year.