You’ll have no trouble finding places to eat and drink. If you’re watching every penny, nosh in the EVA department store beside the station, or at the Widder (see below). Nightlife can be surprisingly good, with all-night bars around the station, lively music bars on Neumarkt, some rougher student/biker dives along Technikumstrasse and a handful of weekend dance clubs.

Albani, Steinberggasse 16. Smallish Old Town bar and venue well able to draw Zürchers out into the sticks with a quality programme of DJs and live music – previous headliners include Pearl Jam and Sheryl Crow. Weekend nights are packed. Fr.15 or so for bands.

Chimichanga, Neustadtgasse 19. Attractive dark low-ceilinged Stübli converted into a quality Tex-Mex restaurant and bar, boasting especially chunky burritos. Eat well for Fr.30.

Gotthard, Untertor opposite station. Switzerland’s first-ever 24-hour bar, a young, friendly joint that’s a peaceful café during the day; at night it attracts a few lowlifes but avoids the sleaze of its Bahnhofplatz neighbours.

Kraftfeld, off Tössfeldstrasse in Sulzer-Areal industrial quarter, 100m beyond Brockenhalle junk shop. Alternative artists’ community which lays on hectic DJ nights featuring experimental drum’n’bass, plus occasional concerts, films and happenings. Tues & Fri 11pm–6am.

Obergass, Obergasse corner Schulgasse. Quiet easy-going café to eat, read and drink in, with a wide range of food, veggie and not, for Fr.14–25. Closed Sun.

Paddy O’Brien’s, Merkurstrasse 25. Quality Irish pub five minutes north of the station to warm your jaded cockles, with 12 beers on tap, TV football and enough of a reputation to pull in The Dubliners for a gig now and again.

Typisch Thai, Neumarkt 3. Full range of Thai dishes, with friendly service and plenty for veggies. Fr.12–15 for lunch, double in the evenings. Closed Mon.

Vegi zur Waage, Rudolfstrasse 15. Behind the station, an excellent value café and all-day restaurant, cosy and bright. Menus can be Fr.15, or all you can eat for Fr.21, with a Sri Lankan buffet every evening. Mon–Fri 6am–11pm.

Walliser Kanne, Steinberggasse 25. Quality Swiss specialities, served in classic style, with subdued decor and a calm atmosphere. Around Fr.35. Closed Sun.

Widder, Metzggasse 9. Subculture Old Town café-bar, with long wooden tables and loud music. Exceptionally good food, well prepared and in massive portions for under Fr.15.