Zürich’s club scene has skyrocketed recently, helped by legislation permitting some all-night opening: you’ll find the city’s dance venues heaving with a new-found energy lacking in most European cities. Heart of the new subculture is Langstrasse, formerly the red-light district, which these days is undergoing a transformation into an eclectic and exciting neighbourhood – music stores and clubwear boutiques cheek by jowl with the biker bars and sex cinemas of old. Its cafés are full of artists and young people, and you’ll come across cosmopolitan bars, chic bistros and crowded alternative hangouts. The northern half of Niederdorf has some of the same vibe. The industrial quarter northwest of Langstrasse is where the best underground clubs hide themselves, but new ones open every month: you could either head out there and follow your ears (Thurs, Fri or Sat after midnight), or chat and check flyers in Zap Records at Zähringerstrasse 47. There’s something happening every night of the week, but Friday and Saturday are busiest. Most places open 10–11pm and close by about 3 or 4am, although a few stay open until 6am or later on the weekend. Entry is usually Fr.10–15.

Dynamo, Wasserwerkstrasse 21. Alternative sounds, everything from guitar-based pop to the deepest drum’n’bass.

El Cubanito, Bleicherweg 5. Salsa and funk.

Inkognito, Hardturmstrasse 122. Atmospheric cutting-edge styles out in the industrial quarter.

Kaufleuten, Pelikanstrasse 18. Plush city-centre mecca, mainstream housey beats drawing a curious blend of clubbers and bankers.

Klinik, Freigutstrasse. Best and most innovative club in the city, with a drum’n’bassy tilt and dynamic feel.

Labyrinth, Pfingstweidstrasse 70. Hard house firing up an energetic mixed gay/straight crowd.

Oxa, Andreasstrasse 70. Premier venue for techno and house; famous for its after-hours parties (Sat & Sun 5am–noon).

Rohstofflager, Josefstrasse 224. Techno nights interspersed with live bands.

Rote Fabrik, Seestrasse 395. Subculture venue with changing nights and big-name DJs.

X-tra, Limmatstrasse 118. Hugely popular multipurpose venue just off Limmatplatz, with triphop and funky sounds entertaining a youngish crowd. Bar and restaurant adjacent, and Hotel Limmat upstairs.