Trains arrive at the Obersee amidst resort bustle, and the tourist office is five minutes’ walk away, uphill on Arosa’s only proper road, Poststrasse (May–Nov Mon–Fri 8am–noon & 2–6pm, Sat 9am–1pm; July & Aug also Sat 2–4pm; Dec–April Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–5.30pm, Sun 10am–noon & 4–5.30pm; 081/378 70 20, www.arosa.ch). All buses within the village are free, and private cars are banned between midnight and 6am (except to arrive or depart). Ski passes cost from Fr.52 for a day, or Fr.239 for a week, and the ski school (081/377 11 50) is beside the train station. In summer, you can rent mountain bikes from the station, from Bootshaus on the Obersee (081/377 23 77) and from Carmenna Sport in the centre (081/377 12 05), and carry them on the first stage of the Weisshorn cable-car for free. Note that most hotels and services close in the between-seasons of April–May and November– December.

The tranquil campsite is below the main resort, on a path winding down from the tourist office (081/377 17 45); partway down is a branch off to the HI hostel on Seewaldweg (Phone & fax 081/377 13 97; a; mid-June to Oct & mid-Dec to mid-April), with good dorms for Fr.26. There are dozens of hotels, almost all of which charge extra if you stay less than three nights, especially in the winter season. Note too that summer prices can be up to fifty percent cheaper than the high-season winter rates listed below. Location can make all the difference to your stay: the busy main street, with its cluster of shops, restaurants and hotels, is easy to avoid, with peaceful places dotted around on all sides. The Lindemann’s, on Postplatz (081/377 50 79, fax 377 34 39; b), is a convenient, family-run little pension in the centre, while Suveran, above the Catholic church (081/377 19 69, fax 377 19 75; b), is a quieter, simpler place with shared-bath rooms. Sonnenhalde (081/377 15 31, fax 377 44 55; b) is in Innerarosa, near the skating rink, excellently located for the winter-only Carmenna draglift and Tschuggen chairlift, with super-friendly service and surprisingly well-appointed rooms. The Isla, Neubachstrasse 30 (081/377 12 13, fax 377 44 42; d), is a pleasant, efficient place on a quiet street between the Obersee and its lower twin, the Untersee. There’s any number of places to splash out, including the super-luxurious Arosa Kulm (081/378 88 88, fax 378 88 89, www.arosakulm.ch; i) at the top of Innerarosa, but if you’re here to relish the winter snows, the place to be is the romantic Prätschli, in a unique location on the slopes high above the Obersee (081/377 18 61, fax 377 11 48; g; mid-Dec to mid-April only), with road access but truly out in the wilds.

Eating and drinking options are down-to-earth to suit the clientele, with a handful of simple diners around the Obersee and the lower reaches of Poststrasse, including the landmark Orelli’s, where you can fill up on fish dishes, Röschti or salad for under Fr.15 (also with veggie meals). Pizzeria Grottino, just down the road from it, has quality pizza/pasta staples for Fr.13–18. Otherwise you’re looking at hotel dining: Hold, up near the Hörnli cable-car, is a popular place offering raclette a-gogo every week, while Quellenhof, near the tourist office, has good menus for under Fr.20. The Anita (081/377 11 09), above the main street near the church, harbours an excellent gourmet restaurant, with multicourse dinners coming in at well over Fr.50.