Touristic village © Grindelwald Tourismus

To suit its high profile, there’s a wider range of accommodation – and kitschy souvenir shops – in Grindelwald than in the Lauterbrunnen resorts, but unfortunately prices aren’t any lower. Note that the between-seasons of April and November see much of the resort close down.

The two nearest campsites are Gletschendorf (033/853 14 29, fax 853 31 29) near the Pfingstegg cable-car and Aspen (033/853 11 24, fax 853 41 57) beyond Grund on the Männlichen slopes. For dorms, a bus from opposite Hotel Bernerhof outside the station, or a steep fifteen-minute walk north, will get you to Terrassenweg, a quiet lane running on a terrace above the village proper. Up here is an excellent HI hostel (033/853 10 09, fax 853 50 29; a) with a cosy atmosphere, spotless dorms (Fr.30), good facilities and amazing views; they also rent out bikes and, in winter, Velogemel, or snow bikes – wooden bikes with runners instead of wheels (Fr. 15/day). Nearby is a less studenty Naturfreundehaus (033/853 13 33, fax 853 43 33; a). The new, rather soulless Mountain Hostel (033/853 39 00, fax 853 47 30; a) is on the valley floor beside Grindelwald-Grund station.

There are dozens of hotels and hundreds of chalets and private apartments in Grindelwald. Lehmann’s Herberge (033/853 31 41; a) is a popular family-run place in the centre, with spotless, spartan rooms, while the Wetterhorn (033/853 12 18, fax 853 58 18; b) is a comfortable old roadside inn an hour’s walk east of the village opposite the Oberergletscher at the point where private cars must park or turn back; it attracts plenty of hikers not only for its location but also for the hearty portions of Swiss cooking on offer in the restaurant. The Rosenegg (033/853 12 82, fax 853 50 59; b–c) is in an excellent location, poised above the main street opposite the tourist office, with spacious rooms, a sun-drenched south-facing terrace and friendly service. At the foot of the First cable-car, Gydisdorf (033/853 13 03, fax 853 13 11; b–c) has a reputation for fine service to complement its serviceably comfortable rooms. The road climbing to the east from here brings you to the rustic, window-box-laden Gletschergarten (033/853 17 21, fax 853 29 57; c–d), a wonderful old pension with a loyal clientele who return year after year. In the heart of the bustle, but with rooms well off the street that remain quiet, Eiger (033/853 21 21, fax 853 21 01; d–e) delivers the kind of generic comforts reminiscent of a city business hotel.